Plecho Tuyuksu

Description of the traverse route of the four peaks of Mayakovsky - Tuyuksu Needle 4B category of complexity, recommendations for equipment and organization of the ascent.

Mayakovsky — Tuyuksu Needles 4B cat. sl. Traverse of four peaks Description of the route. Approaches to the beginning of the ascent are described in the first section of routes to Mayakovsky Peak. The path starts to the left of a pronounced chimney, climbing to the right wall on medium rocks (piton belay). Behind the first wall there is a shelf, to the right there is a 3 m wall, followed by a triangular area and an approach to a 15–20 m wall (pitons belay). After it, there is a shelf with a control cairn and the third 10 m wall (pitons belay). Then traverse to the right along the shelf 9–10 m under the wall, exit to the recommended overnight spot. Here is the second control cairn. The fourth wall is 40 m long, the rocks are difficult (pitons belay), ends with a narrow shelf, behind it — the fifth wall of slabby structure (few ledges). Go to the shelf, traverse it to the left to a chimney 30–35 m high (difficult climbing, piton belay). At the end of the chimney — the third

Winter traverse of five peaks in Trans-Ili Alatau range, category of complexity 5A.

Ascent Certificate Ascent class — combined Ascent area — Northern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge. Peaks — Mayakovsky Peak (4208 m), Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m), Partizan Peak (4390 m), Tuyuksu Spires (4218 m), Tuyuksu Peak (4218 m), route — traverse of 5 peaks. Estimated difficulty category — 5A in winter Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m. average steepness — 45° length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 95 m. Pitons hammered: