Fig. 53

3. Traverse of the Dottakh-kaya — Bu-Ulgen massif (see Fig. 53–56)

From Dombayskaya polyana to the Northern shelter by car. From the Northern shelter, across the river Khokel via a log, to Chotcha polyana - bivouac. From the Northern shelter, 1 hour. From the bivouac, crossing the Chotcha gorge, to the right and further along the snows of avalanche depositions, approach to the first couloir on the slope of the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya. Through the couloir, exit to the "ram's foreheads" and further ascent to the eastern ridge descending towards the Northern shelter. Without reaching the ridge, traverse left into the cirque of a small glacier. Along the snowy slope of the cirque, diagonally upwards to a rocky outcrop, bypass the outcrop on the left and along a steep snowslope (belay!) - exit to the ridge. Then along the ridge and, bypassing a rocky outcrop on the left via a ledge, - exit to the saddle between the main ridge of Dottakh-kaya and the rocky outcrop. From the saddle, along the main ridge (steep rocks of medium difficulty, belay through outcrops, partly piton!) - exit to the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya. Further path to the Western peak of Dottakh-kaya is described in the traverse description of Dottakh-kaya.

Fig. 54

1. Ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Bu-Ulgen (3915 m) via the east wall — Category 4B difficulty (Fig. 54)

From Dombay plain to the Northern refuge by car. From the Northern refuge, across the river Hokel via a log, and then to the Chotcha glade — bivouac. From the bivouac:

• Up the snowy slope towards the second eastern ridge of Bolshoy Buulgen
• Further ascent predominantly along the ridge to the first shoulder via steep (50–55°), местами за­рос­шим тра­вой ска­лам (стра­хов­ка!)
• After traversing 80–90 m along the ridge shoulder, descend to the right onto the glacier (крю­чьевая страховка!) — 40 m rappel and through the randkluft to exit onto the glacier