First Ascent to the Western Peak "Bezbozhnik" via the North Face

The peak "Bezbozhnik" is located in the Dmitriyevka spur, which branches off from Stal'skiy peak and separates the Stal'skiy Glacier to the north and the Frunze Glacier to the south; both glaciers feed the tributaries of the Leviy Talgar River. To the east, "Bezbozhnik" peak is separated from Frunze peak by a pass of the same name, and to the west, a rocky-snowy ridge connects "Bezbozhnik" peak to an unnamed peak. The Leviy Talgar valley is rarely visited by climbers from both "Talgar" and "Tuyuk-Su" alpine camps (due to the non-classification of peaks and remoteness). At the beginning of the summer season in 1962, a group of instructors consisting of Mansurov B.Sh. and Postnikov V.V. conducted a reconnaissance in the Leviy Talgar area. They took photographs, compiled piton records, and descriptions of many peaks. The reconnaissance aimed to find routes of 5B category difficulty. Three routes were discovered:

• to the peak Konstitutsiya via the wall,
• to an unnamed peak in the area of the Dmitriyevka lesgik,
• to the "Bezbozhnik" peak. There was one existing route to "Bezbozhnik" peak with a category of 4B-5B. A group of instructors consisting of:
• Mansurov B.Sh.

DESCRIPTION

First Ascent of the North Face of "Bezbozhnik" Peak (4360 m)

The "Bezbozhnik" peak is located in the ridge that separates the S. Stal'skii glacier to the north and the Frunze glacier to the south; both glaciers feed the tributaries of the Left Talgar River. To the east, "Bezbozhnik" is separated from the Frunze peak by the Frunze pass, and to the west, a short rocky-snow ridge connects it to a nameless peak. The "Bezbozhnik" peak consists of several rocky towers connected by ridges. The highest point is the "pero" gendarme on the central tower. This tower is distinct from the northern tower, which is visible from the S. Stal'skii glacier cirque and the Talgar pass as the "Bezbozhnik" peak. To the south of the central tower stands the southern tower of the same height as the northern one. From the northern tower, a steep counterfort descends northeast to the S. Stal'skii glacier. The tower drops off to the north with an almost sheer wall, approximately 650 m high. The lower part of the wall's base is snowy, about 150 m, and above the bergschrund, it's icy, about 75 m, with a steepness reaching 70° in the upper part. Further up, there's a rocky wall, partially snow-covered, not lit by the sun due to its northern aspect. On September 8, 1958, the assault team consisting of: – Stepanov V.V. — 1st sports category,