Штавлер

338. Shtavler via the Southeast Ridge (route is combined, category 2A, fig. 32, 44). From the Nakra village upwards (to the west) through the forest, then across grassy slopes, further across scree to reach the areas under the ascent of the Eastern gendarme of the Southwest Ridge of Shtavler peak. Initial bivouac. From Nakra village 4–5 hours. From the areas, via easy simple snow-covered rocks of the Southeast ridge, ascent to the Eastern gendarme. From the gendarme, a simple descent onto a snowy plateau. Via simple destroyed snow-covered rocks of the Southeast ridge ascend to the summit of Shtavler. From the initial bivouac 4–5 hours.

339. Shtavler via the West wall of the South ridge (combined route, V. Kozyavkina, cat. 4B, fig. 32, 44). From the village of Nakra, follow the road to the first stream. Here, turn left and ascend through the forest, grassy slopes, and scree of the Southeast ridge of Shtavler peak. Then traverse left across the southern grassy slopes of Shtavler to reach the col of the South ridge. From the col, descend to the Zapadny Shtavler glacier. The initial bivouac is on the moraine of the glacier below the West wall of Shtavler. From the moraine, approach the right side of the West wall of Shtavler peak via the glacier. From the glacier, ascend a steep snowy slope to the right of two rock ridges, then via large scree and easy rocks up and left to the top of the right rock ridge. From the ridge, ascend a snowy slope, then 12–15 m of monolithic, above-average difficulty rocks of the wall to a ledge. From the ledge, ascend up and left 18–20 m via a difficult wall. Then 10–12 m up a difficult corner leads to the next ledge. From the ledge, ascend 80–120 m up smoothed, moderately difficult slabs to a snow patch, and from there to a platform on a snowy rock ridge. From the platform, ascend 30–40 m up the ridge to below overhanging rocks. Below the wall, traverse right and ascend 200–250 m up heavily broken, tiled rocks of moderate difficulty (“live” rocks) to a platform on the ridge below the wall. Bivouac. From the moraine, 6–8 hours. From the platform, ascend 50 m up a difficult wall to inclined slabs. Ascend 30–40 m up the slabs. Continue up easy snowy rocks of the ridge, then 150–200 m up a steep ice-and-snow ridge (avalanches) to below the right side of the overhanging rocks of the West wall. From here, ascend 200–250 m up broken rocks of moderate difficulty (rocks, “live” rocks) with snowy sections to the South ridge of Shtavler (cairn). From the bivouac on the West wall, 5–6 hours.