Pik Dankova
Route Description: СЗ стене
SSummitMateThe ascent of Dankov Peak (5982 m) via the northwest face in the Kok-Shaal-Too range in 1972.
I. Category of ascent: HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL 2. Area of ascent: KOK-SHAAL-TAU RANGE, DJUREK TRACT 3. Route of ascent with indication of peaks and their heights: NORTH-WEST WALL, TENDING TO THE NORTH (azimuth 340°) p. DANKOV, 5982 m 4. Characteristics of ascent: HEIGHT DIFFERENCE 2000 m AVERAGE STEEPNESS 70° — 540 m, LENGTH OF DIFFICULT SECTIONS 54 5. Number of pitons hammered: ROCK — 190 pcs., ICE — 35 pcs., BOLTED — 9 pcs. 6. Number of travel hours: 91 Number of hours spent on preliminary processing: 29.5 hours
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the southwestern wall of Peak Dankov (5982 m) in 1972 by the SKA TsAVO team with a detailed description of the route.
REPORT
on the first ascent of Peak Dankov (5982 m) via the Southwest wall, announced in the championship of the Armed Forces of the USSR on mountaineering in the 1972 season
Team: SKA SAVO
August 1972 Team captain — A. Ilyinsky, B. Gulnev Team coach — L. Kiselev Alma-Ata, 1972
1. Characteristics of the Region
The West Kok-Shaal-Tau ridge is oriented in the latitudinal direction. To the south, it is adjacent to the Takla-Makan desert, and to the north, it is bounded by the powerful mountain ranges of Terskey-Alatau, Boroldoi, and Jetym (Fig. 1).
Route Description: СВ гребню
SSummitMateFirst ascent via the NNE ridge of **Peak Dankova** (5982 m) in **Tian Shan**, cat. 5B, 1998, led by Boyko V.V.
Passport
- Class — high-altitude technical
- Tian Shan, western Kokshaal-Too
- Peak Dankova via NNE ridge (5982 m)
- Category 5B difficulty, first ascent
- Elevation gain — 1650 m Distance — 2200 m. Category 5B difficulty sections — 580 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 62°
- Pitons used: rock 14/2, nuts 8, ice screws 74
- Climbing hours — 22 and days — 3