Route Description

Ascent to v. Malaya Ganza via the northwestern ridge, category 2B. From the base camp, move up the valley along the left (orographic) bank of the Arg river. Cross the Suvtor river, which flows from the northwestern glacier (1 hour's walk from the camp), and continue along its left bank to the Yashnovaya river (30 minutes from the Suvtor river crossing). The path goes up a steep rocky scree. Move along the left (orographic) bank of the Yashnovaya river to the north, towards the "ram's foreheads" (baran'i lby). The "ram's foreheads" are steep and slippery; it's possible to move without being roped up, but with caution (snowy scree, rockfall, and heavily glaciated "ram's foreheads"):

• Snowy scree
• Rockfall
• "Ram's foreheads" are heavily glaciated Beyond the first stage of the "ram's foreheads", there's another scree slope, which is moderate and steep. To the left, the "ram's foreheads" continue as a ridge. Move up the scree slope and a cascade of waterfalls that descend from the next stage of the "ram's foreheads". Caution is necessary on this section due to rockfall and potential icefall, as the path lies beneath the tongue of the glacier.

In the up­per reaches, the val­ley is nar­rowed by snow, there are few trails. View of the summit and saddle see Fig. I. From the bivouac to Gusev's saddle — 4–4.5 hours of walking. From Gusev's saddle, move straight up in the direction of and along the ridge between Pik Chyorny and v. N. Ganz. At the glacier's ascent, there are many hazardous sections on the ridge, partially covered with snow. Movement without crampons is possible. One should move in rope teams, with occasional use of transverse belay. From the ridge, move left onto the snowy ascent (2 ropes), then to the summit (2 ropes), which is a rocky ridge: to the north and northeast — a firn dome, divided by a small saddle into western and eastern summits, both having small rocky outcrops. The summit drops off with sheer rocky walls to the north and southwest. Time from Gusev's saddle to the summit — 2–2.5 hours. In good weather, the summit offers a panorama of all the peaks in the Sansarsky Mountains system. To the northeast, the massive array of Bolshaya Gavza is visible, along with the spurs of the pyramid of Pik Krasnykh Zor. To the north and northeast are visible:

• Pik Chyorny,
• p. Zarnok,
• Meropo,
• v. Chintarga,
• p. Energiya,