Наука
Route Description: с севера
SSummitMate### Traversing the peak Nauka from south to north, category 2B Details the route and necessary equipment for a 2B category complexity traverse of peak Nauka from the southern to the northern aspect.
64. Nauka from the North (or South), Category 2B Climbing Route, Fig. 34
This description is for traversing the Nauka peak from south to north.
Fig. 34. From the bivouac on the left lateral moraine of the Sangalt Glacier, cross the firn plateau of the cirque. Ascend from the glacier to the southern saddle of the peak. The ascent to the saddle goes up a snowy slope, with a bergschrund at its lower part. On the saddle, there is a sharp gendarme; pass it on the left. From the saddle, go up a slanting crack to the left until it forks. Ascend the right vertical crack to a balcony (25 m). From there, go left along a horizontal crack with a jammed rock to a platform. From the platform, ascend the wall (30 m) to reach the shoulder. Then, follow the simple ridge rocks to the summit.
Next:
- From the saddle, go up a slanting crack to the left until it forks.
- Ascend the right vertical crack to a balcony (25 m).
- From there, go left along a horizontal crack with a jammed rock to a platform.
- From the platform, ascend the wall (30 m) to reach the shoulder.
- Then, follow the simple ridge rocks to the summit.
Route Description: с юга
SSummitMate### Ascent Route to "Nauka" Peak (3800 m) via "Pyati" Pass Detailed description of the climbing route, including difficulty levels of various sections and required equipment for a successful ascent.
Description of the Traverse of "Nauka" Peak (36 kg)
Cat. difficulty: 3A
"Nauka" Peak (3800 m) is located in the upper reaches of the Sangalyt River tributaries.
From the base camp, located on the medial moraine of the Avicenna Glacier, the group ascends to the glacier plateau and approaches the "Pyati" Pass. The "Pyati" Pass is situated in the ridge between the peaks:
- "Kruglaya"
- "Kharkov" The ascent to the pass follows a steep snowy slope, 70–80 m long. By the end of summer, the slope may be intersected by a bergschrund. The descent from the pass goes down a gentle, fine scree slope, followed by an exit onto the northern glacier descending from the "Piramid" peaks. Crossing the glacier, the group arrives under the col between "Nauka" Peak and its southern ridge. On the col, a gendarme resembling a sharp finger is clearly visible. The ascent to the col is done on crampons up a snow-ice slope with a 45° incline. The exit onto the col is rocky, to the left of the gendarme. The further ascent to the summit from the col follows difficult rock climbing. The group traverses the following sections: