Ошанина
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateTraverse of the peaks of the northwestern spur of the Peter I Range: Oshanina, 30 Years of Soviet State and Moskva; route difficulty category.
Report
on the traverse of the peaks of the northwestern spur of the Petra I ridge: Zapadny Oshanina (6305) — Centralny Oshanina (6390) — Vostochny Oshanina (6310) — 30 let Sovetskogo Gosudarstva (6447) — Moskva (6785) with ascent to Zapadny Oshanina peak from the Shini-Bini saddle via the northern ridge (first ascent) Team of Moscow City Council "Burevestnik" Sports Society Team captain: Candidate Master of Sports V. Khomutov. Team coach: Master of Sports Yu. Borodkin.
Route Characteristics
Peaks included in the traverse:
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the North Face of Peak OpaNina (6389 m) in the Central Pamir in 1983, description of the route and tactics of the team.
Passport
I. Altitude-Technical Class
- Central Pamir, Peter the First Ridge
- Peak Oshanina (6389 m) via the North face
- Expected — 6th cat. diff., first ascent
- Elevation gain: 2040 m, length ≈ 3000 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1350 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 60° (4500–6300 m), including 6 cat. diff. 76° and 110° (≈ 5000 m), 80° (5200–5250 m), 80° (6230–6300 m) — total 190 m.
- Pitons driven: rock screw anchors ice 113/IX 0/0 14/II 66/0
- Climbing hours to the summit 59; days — 7
Route Description: траверс 3-х вершин
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of Peak Oshanin (Trail of the Three Peaks) in 1975 by a team led by Leonid Lozovsky.
Passport
First ascent made in 1975
- Climbing category — traverse
- Climbing area — North-West Pamir
- Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights — Traverse of the three peaks of Oshanina (6305 m, 6380 m, 6300 m) from Turamys Glacier.
- Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 2450 m. Average steepness 50°. Length of the difficult section 1700 m.
- Pitons hammered: rock 133 ice 76