1. Gidan via 3rd ridge, 1B.

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut ascend along the left side of the gorge along the S slope, then through the “pocket” between the slope and the terminal moraine of the M. Ukyu glacier to the gray talus. Next:

• Up left along the edge of the talus and the spur that bounds it on the right, to the end of the spur, where the gray talus goes left into a steep couloir (rockfall hazard from the left).
• Continue in the same direction along the boundary between the black talus and the rocks on the left until you reach the “pocket” between the slope of the 3rd ridge and the low right-bank (orographically) moraine of the upper Gidan cirque — 1.5–2 hours. From the KSP “Golubyatnya” shelter (under the “watermelon”) it is advisable to ascend to the upper Gidan cirque along the goat trail to the right of the spur — 1–1.5 hours. Through the “pocket” (may be snowy) to where the moraine meets the slope, then left and up along the talus and snowfields to ascend to the 3rd ridge — 1–1.5 hours. Along the narrow snowy ridge through small “gendarms,” then along the broad snowy ridge left of the “gendarms” to a sharp snowy saddle at the junction of the 3rd and SE ridges.
• Up the wall (pitons for protection)
• Bypass the pre-summit “gendarme” on the SE ridge on the left to reach the saddle under the summit tower

2. Gidan via SE ridge, 2A

The ascent to the upper cirque of Gidan from the “Ukyu-kosh” hut is done according to the previous description. Move along the "pocket", then cross over to the right-bank moraine at the confluence with the slope, descend into the cirque, approach the slopes of the SE ridge along the left edge of the cirque and ascend to its saddle — 2.5–3 hours. From the KSP "Golubyatnya" shelter, it is advisable to head to the upper cirque by moving along the slopes of the left south counterfort of Mt. Ukyu M. From the saddle, proceed left, strictly along the line of the rocky ridge with protection on rock outcrops (caution! — do not deviate onto the ledges to the right of the ridge — the rocks are heavily deteriorated and outcrops are unreliable). A 6-meter rock wall in the middle section of the ridge is climbed directly via a crack with piton protection. The pre-summit "gendarme" is bypassed on the left via rocks (caution — heavily deteriorated), then 20 m up and right to the summit. From the saddle, 1–1.5 hours. Descent is done via the 3rd ridge as per the previous description. Hazardous areas: deteriorated rocks on the 3rd slope of the pre-summit "gendarme".

ul. Ma­la­ya, 4221

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