Ascent via the North Edge from the Molodaya Gvardiya Glacier — cat. diff. 2B (4394 m) (fig. 10)

In the southern part of the Malo-Almatinsky spur, which is the watershed of the Bolshaya Almatinka and Levy Talgar rivers, rises the majestic ice-snow pyramid of the Molodaya Gvardiya peak. Fig. 10 The most convenient approach paths to the route are via the Ozerny valley to the Gryazny Glacier. The initial bivouac is organized on the moraine of the glacier. Moving along the right side of the glacier and overcoming a series of crevasses, one exits onto a relatively gentle section at the foot of the northern slope. Continue the ascent up the ice slope with a steepness of up to 40° to the first sentinel on the northern edge of the peak massif. Cats are required on this section. Having overcome the bergschrund and a small icefall, approach the heavily destroyed rocks. Then proceed along the edge; the rocks are of medium difficulty, and exit onto the main North Edge, which approaches the first sentinel. There are cornices on the eastern side of the ridge (be cautious!). The sentinel, up to 20 m high, is bypassed on the right via cut steps in an ice gully, with a steepness of up to 50° and a length of 20–25 m. After ascending onto a very sharp ridge, within 15 minutes one can approach the second sentinel, which is up to 50 m high. After a terrace, there is an exit onto a small steep scree leading to rocks of medium difficulty and onto a steep snowfield ending in a small cornice. To exit onto the ridge via the cornice, a diagonal cutting is necessary.

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Description of the traverse of the Maloalmatinsky spur section

Through the line: O. Koshevoi — Iskra — Molodaya Gvardiya

The traverse begins with the ascent to the summit of O. Koshevoi. The ascent is made along the western ridge. You can climb in two ways:

• from the west through the couloir (to the right of the western wall as you go);
• along the western wall. The ascent through the couloir is not difficult, category 1B. The ascent along the western wall of the peak was first made by the mentioned groups of U. Usenov and V. Alekseev in 1954 and classified as category 3B. While making the traverse of O. Koshevoi — "Iskra" — Molodaya Gvardiya, the group of the Kazakh club started the ascent to the peak Koshevoi along the western wall. The first part of the wall is traversed through a couloir (to the left of the couloir leading to the forepeak). In winter conditions, the couloir is filled with snow. It is more convenient to move along simple rocks with insurance.