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Description of the route of 2B category of complexity to the top of Forosskiy Kant along the right edge of the western part of the massif.

Forosskiy Kant — 5

On the right edge of the western part of the massif, 2B

From the alpinist camps under Forosskiy Kant, proceed about 250 m towards Baidarskie Vorota until a sharp turn of the road. If you go a little further, then, turning around, you can see the inscription "Тележенко" in the lower part of the sheer wall. The start of the main part of the route is to the right of this inscription. From the road turn, first along the trail, and Then up simple rocks to the right of the sheer wall to the middle of the counterforce, 10 m below a long and large crevice. There is a station on 3 rock hooks. (R0: 50 m,

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The "Papa Carlo" route, category 3B, to the Forosskiy kant, running along the western part of the massif with a key section of category V complexity.

Foros kant (600 m). 1. “Papa Carlo”

Massif: Foros kant (600 m), Grade: 3B, V Author: A. Kuzmenko, V. Razuvaev Year of creation: 2005 Number of pitches: 7 Length: 355 m Time to complete: 3–5 hours The route passes through a standalone bastion in the western part of the massif. It is logical but uneven. The crux pitch is clearly a "5" grade. The start of the route is at the base of the corner of the couloir that bounds the counterfort on the left. R0–R1 50 m. Up the couloir, then along the inside corner, exit to the right wall from the corner, and ascend to a ledge. There's a tree on the ledge, but it's better to set up a belay station on your own anchors above, just before the next pitch. 50 m III R1–R2 50 m. Up a crack, then along an inside corner; climbing is difficult, with 2 drill holes. At the top of the corner, traverse 5 m to the left and exit to a large tree via a crack. Belay station. (Crux pitch. The entire crack is suitable for medium and large-sized protection, including medium friends) (50 m V) R2–R3 30 m. From the belay station, move up and to the right into an inside corner. 5 m of challenging climbing in the corner, then it becomes easier - climb up to a tree. (5 m V, 25 m II–III)

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The "Papa Carlo" route, category 3B, on the western part of the Forosskiy Kant, 355 m, 7 pitches, 3–5 hours to complete.

Foros kant — 1. "Papa Carlo"

Massif: Foros kant (600 m); Grade: 3B, V; Author: A. Kuzmenko, V. Razuvaev; Year of route creation: 2005; Number of pitches: 7; Length: 355 m; Time to complete: 3–5 hours The route goes through a standalone bastion in the western part of the massif. Logical, but uneven. The key pitch is clearly "five". The start of the route is at the base of the corner - a couloir that limits the counterfort on the left. R0–R1 50 m. Up the couloir, then along the internal corner, from the corner move to the right wall, and exit to a ledge. There's a tree on the ledge, but it's better to set up a station on your own anchors above, under the start of the next pitch. 50 m III R1–R2 50 m. Up the crack, then along the internal corner, climbing is difficult, there are 2 drill holes. In the upper part of the corner - traverse 5 m to the left, and exit to a large tree via a crack. Station. (Key pitch. The entire crack is suitable for medium and large placements, and medium friends) (50 m V) R2–R3 30 m. From the station, up and to the right into the internal corner. 5 m of difficult climbing in the corner, then it becomes easier - climb up to a tree. (5 m V, 25 m II–III) R3–R4 50 m. Up through несложным internal corners to a ledge with trees. II R4–R5 50 m. Up to a ledge, then up, without going left, station on a large tree. III R5–R6 25 m. From the tree up along the internal corner, exit to a forested ledge. II

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Description of the "Chelebi-6" climbing route in Crimea, including information on routes of varying difficulty and a detailed description of the Bershov route of 5B category of difficulty.

Chelebi — 6

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko, Od­es­sa

Che­le­bi, Cri­mea. De­scrip­tions of al­pi­nist routes

The Che­le­bi massif is lo­cat­ed in the west­ern part of the Main Ridge of the Cri­mean Moun­tains, be­tween the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il­yas-Ka­ya moun­tain. Rel­a­tive height is 200 m, ab­so­lute height is 600 m above sea lev­el. De­spite the mod­est height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th dif­fi­cul­ty grade are laid through the cen­tral part of the wall. The routes are very pop­u­lar (for ex­am­ple, the Ber­shov route, there are sev­er­al as­cends per day). De­scent from the wall is pos­si­ble both left and right. The left path (if look­ing to­wards the sea) is short­er:

  • Walk along the yay­la along the cliff to­wards Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta for about 600–700 m.
  • Near the de­scend­ing cou­loir there is a group of trees.
  • Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.
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Description of mountaineering routes in the Chelebi massif in Crimea, including the complexity and details of passing routes of various categories of difficulty.

Chelebi — 4

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa Chelebi, Crimea. Descriptions of mountaineering routes The Chelebi massif is located in the western part of the Main Ridge of the Crimean Mountains, between the "Baidarskie Vorota" pass and Ilias-Kaya mountain. Relative height is 200 m, absolute height is 600 m above sea level. Despite its relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty pass through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (for example, Bershov's route, there are sometimes several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and from the right:

  • The left path (if you look at the sea) is shorter: you need to go along the yayla along the cliff towards the Baidarskie Vorota for about 600–700 m.
  • Near the descent couloir, a group of trees grows.
  • Down the steep scree, then to the right along the wall.
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The "Scolopendra" route (5B) to Chelebi peak (657 m) with a detailed description and technical details.

Chelebi (657 m). Scolopendra

Massif: Chelebi (657 m) Difficulty: 5B Author: Lavrinenko A., Polyakov M. Route description:

  • 0–1 Start — behind a large rock standing near the wall, upwards through cracks, in the direction of a large tree, the rightmost one. Near the tree — a belay station, a comfortable ledge. 27 m IV 2–3 Upwards through a system of corners, climbing + ITO, there are holes for skyhooks, 2 bolts, exit onto a destroyed ledge, here is a bolt. From it, upwards to the right, careful climbing, to a tree. On the tree, a belay station.
  • 50 m
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Description of the 2B category complexity route to the summit of Dorbun Glavny (3140 m) via the southern ridge from Duritskiy pass in Arkhyz.

Ascent Passport

  1. ASCENT TYPE: rock climbing
  2. ASCENT AREA: Karachay-Cherkessia, Arkhyz, upper reaches of the Aman-Auz River
  3. PEAK, ROUTE: Dorbun Glavny. 3140 m. Via the South Ridge from Duritsky Pass.
  4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 2B, first ascent
  5. ELEVATION GAIN: 320 m
    • total route length — 450 m
    • average steepness of the route — 50°
  6. NUMBER OF PITOONS: ≈ 10–12 chocks
  7. NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS: 3 (from the pass to the summit)
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Description of the route for the first ascent of category 2B difficulty level to the peak named after Bulgarian-Soviet friendship in the Western Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

ASCENT CLASS— rock climbing
ASCENT AREA— Western Caucasus, North-West spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the Pshish and Sofia river valleys
PEAK, ROUTE— Bolgaro-Sovetskoy druzhby (BSD) via the Northern slope and South-Western counterfort
ASSUMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY— 2B
ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS— rock climbing, absolute height difference ~ 300 m
NUMBER OF PLACED PROTECTION— II
NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS— 4 h (from the start of the route to the summit)
NUMBER OF NIGHTS— no overnight stays required on the route
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Description of a new technical route, category 2B difficulty level, to the summit of Oshten (2804 m) in the Western Caucasus via the north-western bastion.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: technical
  2. Ascent area: Western Caucasus
  3. Peak, route: Oshen Mt. (2804 m) via the right part of the NW bastion
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B, first ascent
  5. Wall height difference: 300 m Route length: 440 m Average wall slope: 50°
  6. Pitons driven:
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Description of a rock climbing ascent to the summit "Pik 3305" (3305 m) via the NW ridge from the Stolicny pass, complexity category 3A.

Ascent Passport

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I. ASCENT CLASS: Rock 2. ASCENT AREA: Arkhyz, Stavropol region, KTMGV - 2.1. 3. PEAK: "Pik 3305", height 3305 m above sea level, ascent via NW ridge from Stolichny pass. 3. EXPECTED DIFFICULTY: approximately 3A category of difficulty 5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Height difference between base camp and peak - 1985 m; between pass and peak - 260 m; total route length from pass to peak - 1095 m; average steepness - 30°. Length of section with 8th difficulty grade - 200 m; 11th difficulty grade - 475 m; IIIrd difficulty grade - 330 m; IVth difficulty grade - 80 m; Vth difficulty grade - 10 m; 4. PITS DRIVEN: For rock belay - 7 pcs, ice - none, bolted - none. For creating artificial support points - 1 pc. 7. NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS: From base camp to peak - 9 hours, from pass to peak - 5 hours; descent from peak to base camp - 4 hours; 5. NUMBER OF NIGHTS: Route completed without overnight stay (if necessary, possible: under Stolichny pass; in the cirque under "Rocky Feathers"). 6. GROUP INFORMATION: Leader - Khamtsov Alexander Petrovich, 1st sports category, instructor-methodologist II category. Participants: Karpov Evgeny Valentinovich, 1st sports category, instructor-methodologist II category. Redozubov V. I., 2nd sports category, instructor-methodologist III category. Cher­kashin Viktor Mikhailovich, 1st sports category; Melkov Valery Petrovich, 1st sports category. 10. TEAM COACH: Rogovsky Viktor Petrovich, instructor-methodologist II category, 8 certificates. 2357. 1st sports category. II. DATE OF DEPARTURE AND RETURN FROM THE ROUTE: May 5, 1980 5:00. Returned - May 5, 1980 17:30.

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