ц. кф. В стены
Route Description: ц. кф. В стены
Ascent to the peak of Komosomol (3429 m) via the central counterfort, category 3A, height difference 730 m, rocky terrain.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Climbing category — rock climbing
- Climbing area — Tuvinian ASSR, Western Sayan, Tsagan-Shibetu ridge
- Peak — Komsomol peak (3429 m), via the central counterfort
- Proposed category of difficulty — 3A category
- Route characteristics: height difference — 730 m, length of sections with III–IV category of difficulty — 310 m, average steepness — 40°–45°.
- Pitons hammered for belaying:
- rock: 8/0;
- ice: 9/0;
- bolt: 0/0;
Route Description: ц. кф. В стены
Ascent to Peak Komsomol (3429 m) via the central counterfort of the North Face, a challenging route that includes rocky and snowy terrain.
p. Komsomol (3429) on the central ridge — Category III complexity
From the base camp, we ascend to the plateau in the direction of the E Glacier (I, category 7). We then move along the plateau in its eastern direction towards the beginning of the p. Komsomol ridge. We cross the ridge in its lower, gentler part and descend along the moraine to the lakes (I, 54). We move along the lakes to the saddle between v. Spartak and the ridge of p. Komsomol. After crossing the saddle, we ascend to the route (I, 54). At the beginning of the route, there is a guiding cairn. After the guiding cairn, we move along the snow, about 200 m. Then, we ascend along easy rocks, 150 m, on a wide ridge, and then reach the "ram's foreheads" (60–70 m). At the time of ascent, the "ram's foreheads" were snow-covered — movement with organization of rope protection. Further:
- we ascend along moderately difficult rocks to a wall, 5–6 m high, before which a control cairn is located (to the right, a large gendarme is located in a couloir);