descent on a rope with leaving a loop. Further descent along the couloir and osnam bypassing the gendarme Amna-Krun to the pass between the peaks Moskva and Sakharnaya Golova. From the pass, descent to the Akhbasoy glacier. The travel time from the saddle between the peaks and the gendarme to the Akhbasoy glacier is about 4–6 hours.

Recommendations

I. It's better to start the ascent up the snow-ice slope to the gendarme not later than 7:00–7:30 am, when the snow is not too soft. When ascending from the saddle to the summit, have:

• one pair of crampons
• non-frozen sneakers

Pixaxa Frozen Head

45, comb, with glacier A-basoi on the wall to the saddle of the 3rd ridge. Exit to the route from the foot of glacier A-basoi under the wall of the gendarme Amna-Krun of the 3rd rib of the summit. The ascent from the glacier to the wall of the gendarme is done via an ice pitch with a steepness of 50–60° and a length of about 150 m. When passing, steps are cut and ice axes are used (5–6 pcs.). After the ice pitch, there is a gully with rimed ice (30 m) of the same steepness. Insurance is hook, many loose rocks. From the gully, exit to rocks of medium difficulty (120 m). After the rocks, along a snow-ice slope, exit to a rock route выступ, where an overnight stay can be organized. From the overnight stay location:

• Ascent along a longitudinal ice slope (120 m) to a rock выступ (island).
• Further ascent along difficult steep rocks to the left of the couloir with rimed ice 20 m, 60–70°.
• The upper part of the couloir flattens to 40–45° (40 m).
• Exit to a weakly expressed rock ridge.
• Movement along a rocky ice slope (80 m) up to 70° to a mulde, then after 60 m along an ice slope - exit to the edge of a gendarme. There is a place for an overnight stay. All sections of the route are passed with thorough insurance, hook.