9. Ascent to the summit of "Palangi-Safed" (White Bars). (approx. 4A) (from Omsk Pass). The summit "Palangi-Safed" (White Bars) (4565 m) is located in the Fann Mountains in the southern spur of the summit Bolshaya Ganza to the east of the Arg river gorge. The peak is rocky, without snow cover, ice is found in crevices and chimneys facing north. The rocks are very destroyed, but have few cracks for hammering in rock pitons. In the cracks, wedges can be used for belaying. No notes were found at the summit. The approach to the summit is from Lake Iskanderkul up the Sarytog River, then along the Arg River and then up the Anzak River and its right tributary (along the way) to the Omsk Pass. By the second half of summer, both these rivers (Anzak and its tributary) become very shallow and even get lost among the stones. It is better to spend the night under the pass, where there is water, firewood, and no wind. The ascent begins to the north of the Omsk Pass, at the beginning of the ridge. First, we go along a steep internal angle 20 m long and exit to a large site. Along the site, we approach the rocks and, turning right, along a ledge we approach a cleft. We ascend the cleft to a protruding stone, convenient for belaying. From the stone, right and up 20 m along a wide crack, we exit to the second site. On it, a control cairn was left. To the right of the site are cliffs. Further up 20 m along a steep couloir, and then 40 m up the rocks of medium difficulty. Then left and 35 m along an inclined oblique fissure. Ahead is the first gendarme (Path from the large site to gendarme No. 1 in the photo). We ascended the gendarme along an inclined shelf and after a 30-meter descent from it along a sharp ridge, we reached a saddle. Behind it is the second gendarme. The second gendarme is bypassed on the right and along slabs with a steepness of 60° we exit to gendarme No. 3, which is bypassed on the left along heavily destroyed rocks.

SUMMIT: BELY BARS (4505 m) Via the southern ridge, 4A category of difficulty, rock Description of the first ascent made on July 27, 1967 by a group led by Davydenko V.N. (Chelyabinsk region, Miass) Description compiled by: Davydenko / leader Chelyabinsk Regional Alpine Federation 1967

1. Introduction

In the ridge located south of the peak Bolshaya Ganza, between the passes Omsk and Anzak, lies the peak Bely Bars (Lalangi Safet - the Tajik name, means "White Leopard"). The first ascent - according to information provided to us by the well-known expert on the Fann Mountains, Mr. Paganutsi N.V. (Karaganda) - was made via the southwestern short edge (route 3B category of difficulty, unclassified) by a group from Karaganda in 1962. Approaches to the Omsk pass from the northwest from the Arg river area and from the southeast from Lake Iskanderkul take 3-4 hours. The peak Bely Bars is clearly visible from the area of the peaks Saharnaya Golova, Kaltsit, and Krasnye Zori, and the group's path - from under the Omsk pass on the western side.