С гребню
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateRoute to the summit of Kopman (43° N, Caucasus) via N. ridge of W. Apseron, with a detailed description of the path and technical details.
43
(50) N. West b. Apsheron, t. Kopman, N. Kozerog. Tserkovnoye, L. Kopatketo
(cm)
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit along the northern and eastern ridges with a detailed description of the challenging sections and descent options.
- I. 5 ropes left — up, further up (40–50°) — 2 ice and 2 rock pitches are solid (grade 7–8). The northern trough expands and turns into a steep slope, resting against the junction with the eastern ridge near the tower's summit. IО. Up monolithic slabs (50°), few holds (only thin pitons go in) (4 ropes — 9 pitons, grade 8–9). II. One rope of snow and rock — medium difficulty rock — left and up, bypassing the pre-summit tower (grade 9–IО) via 3 ropes of Alpine rock, exit onto the ridge.
- One rope along the ridge (3 pitons, grade I0 — II). Then 3 ropes on disintegrated rocks to the eastern summit.
- Descent from the E summit to the pass (last 15 m on a rope) and ascent to the main summit along the wide main ridge (grade: II — 12)
- Descent initially via the ascent route to the ridge fork. Further down along the eastern ridge to the Алаудин valley — right and down. Slabs and scree on them. Last 2 ropes before reaching the shoulder of the eastern ridge — descent on a rope with retrieval.
- From the shoulder to the very bottom, scree goes with outcrops of "ram's teeth" — I valley of Алаудин valley (6 pitons on descent). запасной вариант спуска — на переходе между Адан-кни and п. Прошехуточный (3 km/h). First ascenders recommend making it the main descent route. They estimate the ascent at 2000 m, 4 hours.
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the Adantaii peak from the northeast through the Adantaii pass, indicating the categories of difficulty and details of the route passage.
Ascent to the peak Adantai from the NE via the Adantai Pass, 45 km/tr.
I. From a night's stay at 6:00, along the moraine under the Adantapa Pass to the pass (base camp on Dvshakho Lake). 2. 80 m up to the first ascent, which is located on the left on snow (40 m) to an internal corner (80°) with a crevasse (height 5–6 m). 3. Climb up the internal corner (difficult climbing), insurance from the snow through an ice axe (2–3 sections). 4. Upwards — to the right on easy rocks (grade 3–4) to the ridge under
- the second ascent, which is a steep section of the ridge with two overhangs, one under the other in the upper part (grade 4–5).