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SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Ascent to the top of Karagoy along the southern ridge, category 1B difficulty, length 700 m, height 300 m, time 3.5-4 hours.

  1. Karagoy via the South Ridge The route is rocky, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 61, 62, 73). Length — 700 m, elevation gain — 300 m, time — 3.5–4 hours. The approach from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group size is not limited) to the initial bivouac in the Djeljilga gorge, at the entrance to the lateral Ruchyeva cirque — see route 14. From the initial bivouac:
  • Turn right and ascend via the right-bank moraine into the Ruchyeva cirque.
  • Continue ascending via the right-bank moraine and, after passing the slopes of the LVO peak, approach the saddle of the Karagoy Pass.
  • From the cirque — 250–300 m ascent to the right of the Eastern counterfort of the Northern ridge of the Big Ruchyeva peak with a triangular base, along a 30–35° slope composed of small and medium talus, transitioning into multiple couloirs in the central and upper parts.
  • Ascend via the middle couloir to the Karagoy Pass. From the initial bivouac — 2–2.5 hours. The approach to the Karagoy Pass from the Suichikty gorge:
  • From the alpine camp, ascend via the left-bank road of the Suichikty river to the kurgan, then to the ruined stone house of geologists.
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