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Rock4,133 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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First ascent to the summit "Novichok" (3940 m) via the South-Eastern ridge, cat. diff. 1B, with a description of the route and necessary equipment.

First ascent to the summit "Novichok" via the South-East edge (Photo № 1 and Photo № 2). The "Novichok" summit is located in the North-Western spurs of the Alai ridge, in the lower reaches of the "Kalkush" glacier. The approach to the "Novichok" summit can be made:

  • from the "Kalkush" gorge along the river of the same name to the "Kalkush" pass, with an ascent to it in 6 hours;
  • along the "Dugoba" gorge to the confluence of the Uliter and Ak-Tash rivers and further along the Surmetash river with an ascent to the Kalkush pass from the North-East, 6 hours. The ascent to the "Kalkush" pass is category 1B. In the lower part, there are screes and further on snow, it takes 2-3 hours. The ascent to the "Novichok" summit along the South-East edge is carried out from the pass along the 200 m scree, then a rocky ascent along rocks of medium and easy difficulty - 450-500 m, which leads to a rocky ledge. Bypassing the "gendarme" on the left - 25 m (ropes are necessary). The second "gendarme" is passed head-on along a rocky chimney (stretching ropes), 15 m. Further ascent along rocks of medium difficulty - 3 ropes and the summit.
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Climbing guide to "Novichok" peak (4000 m) via route 2A, including path description, recommendations, and photos.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing
  2. Ascent area, ridge — Pamir-Alai, spurs of the Kollektor Ridge
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. "Novichok" 4000 m, NE ridge
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A category
  5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories, average steepness
  6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying — 8 rock pitons
  7. Number of walking hours — 7 hours
  8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics —
  9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification
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