С стене через ледопад

Ice5,020 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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**First ascent of Oguz-bashi II West via the North wall through the ice fall, category 6A, with a detailed analysis of tactics and technical details of the ascent.**

Passport

  1. Ice and snow class
  2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge
  3. Oguz-bashi II Western peak (5000 m) via the North face "through the icefall"
  4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6A first ascent
  5. Route description: elevation gain — 750 m, length — 990 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 600 m, 6th category of difficulty — 190 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 57° (4200–4850), including 6th category of difficulty sections: 65° (4650–4725), 85° (4770–4850), 105–120° (4830–4880)
  6. Pitons used: rock: 0, bolt: 0, chocks: 0, ice: 430* * — including 130 per rope team during independent movement and an additional 40 during interaction (130 × 3 + 40).
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