ЮЗ склону с л. Конституции

Rock
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
0

Description of the ascent route to the summit with challenging rock sections and recommendations for climbers.

and the inner corner, and again along the middle rocks to a sloping platform, in the upper corner of which there is a cairn with a note. Descent to the snowy ridge, leaving three pre-summit gendarmes on the right side. Bypassing them along steep snowslopes, in three steps, leading to the base of the summit tower. Along easy rocks and large stones, exit to a small saddle between the pre-summit gendarme and the summit tower. From here, ascent to the summit tower, 50–60 m high, and exit (with careful belay) to a rocky platform with "live" stones under an overhanging wall with an inner corner. Exit to the tower through a cleft from the platform under the inner corner straight up. The rocks are difficult. Belay through a ledge. A few meters from the platform, there is a wide horizontal crack:

  • Hammer in a piton for belay and foothold.
  • Above, there is a small inclined shelf, along which one can enter the cleft.
  • Further, on friction, exit to the summit ridge and along it, after a few meters, to the summit. Descent along the scree to the Konstituciya Glacier. From the initial bivouac, the entire ascent takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

  1. Number of participants: 6–8 people. Not recommended for mass ascents.
0
0

Description of the route category 1B to the summit INETAU (4038 m) from the Constitution glacier.

INETAU (4038 m)

Ascent from the Constitution Glacier, route 1B cat. complexity (fig. 4). The INETAU peak is located in the northern spur extending from the 10 Years of Kazakh SSR peak and separating the Toguzak Glacier from the Constitution Glacier. It is a pronounced eminence on the ridge. From the Toguzak Glacier side, it appears as a sharp needle on a snowy base, while from the Constitution Glacier side, the summit tower rises amidst a jumble of rocky debris from the destroyed ridge. From the initial bivouac, conveniently set up on the right moraine of the Toguzak Glacier, cross the terminal moraines of the glacier towards the talus at the start of the ridge. Ascend the talus to the ridge. Cross the ridge to reach the right lateral moraine of the Constitution Glacier. Follow the moraine ridge to an isolated rock near the ridge, and from there, via a gully, exit onto the ridge to a gendarme composed of red rocks. The first control cairn is located on it. Bypass the next gendarme to the left on snow (ice is possible!). Subsequent gendarmes are bypassed on both sides. After them, cross a small couloir between the main ridge and a group of rocks to the right. Continue along the ridge of moderately difficult rocks upwards to a distinct gendarme. The second cairn is located here. Descend from it onto a snowy-icy saddle before a table-like gendarme and bypass it to the right. Then, ascend medium rocks and talus to a tower with a snowy belt. The ascent to it involves the following sections:

  • medium rocks
  • inclined slabs
0
0