72.55

Zharsay, Southeast Ridge, Cat. 1B

The summit "Zharsay" is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau and is situated southeast of the "Metallurg" peak. The height of the "Zharsay" summit is 4650 m. Until 1957, there were no ascents to the "Zharsay" summit. The first complete traverse of the "Zharsay" massif was made by a group of instructors from the "Talgar" alpine camp of the "Metallurg" sports society from August 13 to 18. The group consisted of:

• Kelberg A.V. - leader;
• Sorokin S.V.;
• Porokhnya Yu.I.;
• Chernoshchechkina Z.V. - participants. The path to the foot of the "Zharsay" summit from the "Talgar" alpine camp goes along a trail leading to the training rocks to the east towards the "Ozerny" glacier. The "Ozerny" glacier should be crossed immediately above the training rocks to reach its right (orographic) bank. Along the right part of the "Ozerny" glacier, one needs to proceed southeast to the foot of the "Taverentava" pass. Then, ascend to the pass via a wide couloir covered with medium scree and snow. The descent from the pass is made towards the "Metallurg" glacier. The snow-ice slope is initially traversed to the left, and then to the right, until reaching the rocky outcrops, from which one can descend to the lateral moraines of the glacier. The "Metallurg" glacier cirque is crossed in an easterly direction, and via firn, and then medium rocks, we reach the saddle of the northeast ridge of the "Metallurg" summit. The descent from the saddle towards the "Zharsay" glacier goes along a steep ice slope. Moving along the right part of the glacier, one needs to go around the lateral ridge.