СЗ стене
Route Description: СЗ стене
SSummitMateA route in the Pamir Mountains, elevation 5568 m, grade 6A, with a detailed description of the ascent to the summit.
Pn. uamer 5568 м 146.60
Route Description: СЗ стене
SSummitMateThe ascent of Shater peak (5568 m) via the North-West wall, category 6B, made in 1985 by a team led by Vladimir Balberdin.
II A C II O P T
- Climbing category: high-altitude technical 2. Climbing region: Pamir, Garm-Chashma valley, Ishkashim Range
- Peak Shatyor, 5568 m, northwest wall (route
- I. Grigorenko — Prigody)
- Difficulty category: 6B cat., second ascent
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1368 m route length — 1655 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. — 715 m, including 6 cat. — 300 m, steepness of the main part of the route — 68° (4200–5210)
- Pitons driven: Rock Shoulder Pitons Nuts Ice 139–37 5–4 35
- Team's walking hours: 47 and 5 days
Route Description: СЗ стене
SSummitMateDescription of a challenging ascent by the team of the Ukrainian Physical Education and Sports Committee to Peak 5497 in the Pamir Mountains in 1973.
II a c ii op t
Ascent made in the USSR Climbing Championship on August 15, 1973. 1 Ascent class — technically difficult. 2 Ascent region — 10.3. Pamir. 3 Ascent route — Peak 5497 m. 4 Ascent characteristics:
- height difference — 1900 m
- average steepness — 80°
- length of difficult sections — 670 m, 6 km 5 Pitons driven:
- rock — 538 (including those driven at the bivouac)
- ice — 22
Route Description: СЗ стене
SSummitMate### First Ascent of Peak 5497 via the Northwest Face In 1973, a team from the Ukrainian Committee for Physical Culture and Sports achieved the first ascent of Peak 5497 via its northwest face in the Pamir Mountains. The route is classified as category 6 complexity.
Report on the First Ascent in the 1973 USSR Alpine Championship
on the peak 5497 m via the northwest wall by the team of the Ukrainian Committee for Physical Culture and Sports From June 14 to June 23, 1973, under the leadership of Grigorenko-Prigoda Yu.I.
Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Object
Peak 5497 m is located in the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river. The first researcher of this region was botanist B.A. Fedchenko, who visited in 1904, but his research was not published. In 1931, P. Luknitsky, a Pamir researcher and participant in the Tajik complex expeditions, visited the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river. He made drawings and drew attention to the massif, which he called "Shatert" (Tent). The "Shatert" massif has two peaks on the left and three prongs on the right. Nearby, to the south, lies the peak Mayakovsky (photo). The area around peak Mayakovsky has been explored by alpinists, but the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river remained uncharted. Tourists from Kiev explored this region, made first ascents of several passes, and climbed peak Garms-Chashma (1B category). The peak is located along the ridge next to the "Shatert" massif. In 1971, the Ukrainian Council of Tourism organized a tourist expedition to the Garms-Chashma river region and invited alpinism instructors V.S. Shumikhin, V.S. Tkachenko, A.I. Vseljubsky, V.A. Bakhtigozin, and others. Concurrently, an alpinist expedition from Kharkov worked in the area. During this period, several first ascents of categories 1, 2, and 3 were made, and a detailed reconnaissance of the wall on the left part of the "Shatert" massif to peak 5497 m was conducted. Results of the reconnaissance: