траверс с СЗ вершины, включая Зуб
Route Description: траверс с СЗ вершины, включая Зуб
### Route Description on Kozelsky's Tooth via the Northwest Wall A detailed guide for climbers, including technical specifics and recommendations for ascending the Northwest Wall of Zуб Kozelsky.
Traversing Kozelskaya Sopka from northwest to southeast with ascent to Zub Kozelsky via the northwest wall – category 3A (Figure 4)
From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, overnight stay in the Kozelsky Creek valley (see description for Zub Kozelsky – 1).
On the right side of the canyon, across the moraine-covered glacier, bypassing a rock massif on the right (in the direction of travel) lateral moraine, exit into a wide snow-ice couloir with a slope of 30–35°, descending from the false pass. Staying on the left (in the direction of travel) side of the couloir, exit to the false pass in 2.5–3 hours. Movement is in teams. In the upper part of the couloir – 5 ropes, alternate belay. It is advisable to wear crampons, as there are sections of dense firn and ice in the upper part.
From the false pass – ascent via a ridge leading to the western summit below a large gendarme.
Bypass the gendarme on the left in the direction of travel:
- 3 ropes
- step cutting
- piton belay (it is possible to drive pitons into the gendarme wall) After bypassing the gendarme, exit onto a ridge leading to the western summit of Kozelskaya Sopka via a cleft (1 rope, belay).