Description of the Ascent Route to Arkhon Glavny (4253 m) via the Northeast Ridge, Category 3B Complexity

The Arkhon massif is located in the Tepli group of peaks in the Northeast spur of the Kolota peak (4168 m). Its four peaks, listed in order from Kolota, are named:

• Yuzhny (South)
• Tsentralny (Central)
• Glavny (Main)
• Maly (Small) The first ascent of Glavny Arkhon was made on July 2, 1949, by a group led by Senior Lieutenant German. On July 3, 1949, the ascent was repeated by a group of climbers from the Ordzhonikidze "Medik" Sports Society (led by A. Kalmykov). These ascents were made from the Khardadzhin glacier from the south and are classified as Category 2A. On May 29, 1966, a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze, led by R. Proskuryakov, made the first ascent of the Northeast ridge of Arkhon Glavny, approaching it from the Kurtatin valley. The group consisted of athletes with 1st sports rank and one with 2nd sports rank. On the same day, a group of third-rank climbers led by N. Alchiev made the first ascent of Arkhon Maly (3942 m) via the Southwest ridge, Category 2B complexity.

Day One

From Ordzhonikidze, travel through the village of Dzuarikau to the Kurtatin valley until the fork of the Fiagdon and Dzamarash-don rivers (2 hours 30 minutes). At the fork, cross the Fiagdon River to the left bank and follow the trail for about 1 km along the river. The trails lead into the first valley to the west.