траверс с пер. Ронкетти

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SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Traversing the Main and Eastern peaks of the Ronketti massif (a combined route of category 3B difficulty) in 3 days with a description of the route and recommendations.

Fig. 37 184. Ronketti Glavnaya — Vostochnaya (G. Maslov's combined route, category III, fig. 37). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4–8 people) to Glavnaya Ronketti with the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in routes 83, 179, 182. From the summit Glavnaya Ronketti, descend along the simple rocks of the Eastern ridge to a narrow snowy (cornice) col under the Vostochnaya tower. Beyond the col:

  • ascend along the snowy, then rocky ridge to the Vostochnaya tower of the Glavnaya summit. From the Vostochnaya tower, descend 30–40 m along the gently sloping Eastern ridge. Then descend 70–80 m from the ridge to the right along a narrow, steep rocky couloir ("live" rocks — piton belay) to a rocky slope. Above the slope, exit the couloir and, after traversing a small ledge to the left, rappel 20 m down the wall to the slabs. Along the not steep slabs with many footholds, traverse to the left to the Eastern ridge and descend along the heavily destroyed rocky ridge to the sandy areas of the col between Glavnaya and Vostochnaya peaks of the Ronketti massif. Descent from the Vostochnaya tower is possible along the Eastern ridge with a 40 m rappel down the wall. From the col, ascend 50–60 m up the simple rocks of the Western ridge of the Vostochnaya Ronketti summit. Then, along a wide crack to the right of a narrow couloir, ascend a 25–30-meter wall (key point of the route — piton belay) to a ledge. From the ledge:
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