З гребню
Mixed4А4,300 m
Route Description: З гребню
Ascent to the summit of Tsukhgaraty via the Western Ridge, a combined route of 4A category of difficulty, description of the path and key moments of the ascent.
Fig. 4
10. Tsukhgarty via Western Ridge (combined route by I. Suzhaev, category 4A difficulty, Fig. 4).
From the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–6 people) ascend via grassy slopes and then moraines to the right and upwards (northeast) towards the areas near a small lake below the Tsukhgarty glacier, beneath the Sugansky Ridge saddle, which connects the Nakhashbita peak on the left and Tsukhgarty on the right. The journey from the "Nakhashbita" meadow takes 1 hour 15 minutes.
From the lake, ascend the steep slope (possible rockfall — belaying required) of the Tsukhgarty glacier:
- approach a small icefall, which is bypassed on the right side closer to the rocks of Tsukhgarty peak
- after the icefall, ascend the narrow glacier (exposed to rockfall from Nakhashbita and Tsukhgarty slopes) in the direction of the snowy slope of the couloir descending from Nakhashbita pass, located between its large gendarme and the Main Nakhashbita peak — on the left The journey from the lake takes 2–2.5 hours. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge (belaying required) and continue ascending, sticking to the right side of the ice-snow couloir (possible rockfall) or the destroyed rocks on its right side (belaying required). In the middle part of the couloir, exit onto the ridge and then ascend an 70–80-meter slope (pitons belay) to reach the Sugansky Ridge saddle to the left of the Big Gendarme. Ascent time:
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