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Ice4,353 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Description of the ascent route to the Doppah peak via the North-Eastern Ridge, category 4 difficulty, using ice climbing equipment.

Is Doppakh the main (western?) one via the north-eastern ridge?

The ridge is snowy-icy, category 4 difficulty. The route has been climbed multiple times (1937, 1939), but a detailed description is not available. From the south-western branch of the "Nakhashbita" glacier, ascend a steep (35-40°) icy slope, reaching 70° at times, to the north-eastern icy ridge and along it to the summit (photo 27). From the overnight stay on the glacier to the summit is 7-8 hours of intense work. Descend via the ascent route. For the route, 8-10 ice screws, ropes for loops, and other equipment are necessary.

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