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SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Ascent to the summit of Vostochny Doppakh via the North-Eastern slope, a combined route of 4B category of complexity, 3 days.

Fig. 8 32. Doppakh East via the North-Eastern Slope (combined route A. Zyuzin, cat. 4B, Fig. 8). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygan-su River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4-8 people), ascend via the crest of the left-bank moraine of the glacier to its end. Here, descend to the right onto the Nakhashbita Glacier and approach the serac zone of its Southern branch. On the route:

  • Ascend the powerful, steep, and heavily crevassed serac zone to the upper snow plateau leading to the Doppakh Pass.
  • Traverse the plateau to the right and upwards onto the scree of the short Northern counterfort of the North-Eastern slope of the Eastern ridge of the Vostochny Doppakh peak. The initial bivouac is on the scree. From the base camp, it takes 6-7 hours. The approach path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow to the Doppakh Pass is described in route 17. From the pass, descend northwards down a steep ice-snow slope with an 8-10-meter sheer wall of the bergschrund in the lower part. Further, keeping to the left side of the Nakhashbita Glacier, it is necessary:
  • to descend a steep slope with numerous crevasses;
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