СВ ребру
Mixed5Б5,047 m
Route Description: СВ ребру
SSummitMateTraversing the Eastern and Western Mizhirgi peaks via the North-Eastern counterfort is a Category 5B route, first ascended in 1960.
- Traverse of the Eastern and Western Mizhirgi peaks with ascent to the Eastern Mizhirgi via the North-Eastern counterfort - 5B cat. diff. (A. Timofeev, V. Zhirnov, V. Ivanov, L. Kadykov, A. Pepin, and G. Chunovkin - July 29 - August 4, 1960; Fig. 23, 24). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to the medial moraine of the Mizhirgi glacier above the first stage of the icefall is described in route 18. The moraine is used as a bivouac. From the bivouac (with crampons!) traverse the glacier to the foot of the North-Eastern counterfort of the Eastern Mizhirgi peak and ascend a 250 m ice-and-snow slope to the left side of the counterfort. Ascend 80 m up and to the right along moderately difficult snow-covered slabs, then ascend a small snow slope to the foot of the counterfort wall. Ascend 80 m up and to the right along the wall ("live" rocks!) with piton belay, then 70 m straight up the counterfort (artificial aids!) to a ledge (control cairn on the ledge). From the ledge, ascend 60 m up a snow slope on the right side of the counterfort, then 25 m up and left along a chimney to the counterfort. From here, ascend 25 m along a rocky, then 20-25 m along a snowy counterfort to the foot of the first gendarme wall. Ascend 35 m straight up the wall to a ledge, then traverse 15-20 m along an internal corner. From the corner, traverse 20-25 m along the wall to the right to a ledge below a crevice, then ascend 20 m up the crevice to a smooth wall. Ascend 30 m up and to the right along the wall to an external corner, then 30 m up the corner, followed by a traverse to the right with a descent behind the gendarme to a snowy col on the ridge (piton belay!). Ascend along the snowy ridge to the foot of the second gendarme. From here, ascend a snowy slope on the right side of the ridge, then descend to the right without reaching the gendarme, to a wide snowy ridge-slope. The ridge-slope is used as a bivouac. The total time from the initial bivouac is 12-14 hours.
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