центру С стены

Mixed4,689 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Report on the ascent of the LETI alpine club team to the summit of Krumkol via the center of the north wall in January 2013, complexity category 5B.

St. Petersburg City Alpinism Championship 2013

Climbing Passport:

  1. Central Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Bezengi gorge, section 2.5 ECTM 2013
  2. v. Krumkol (4688 m), center of the north wall (A. Kolchin), variant
  3. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty (variant)
  4. Route type: combined
  5. Route height difference — 1600 m Total route length — 2900 m Section lengths:
  • V category of difficulty — 505 m
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First ascent of Krumkol peak (4640 m) via the central bastion of the northern wall, category 5B difficulty, with a detailed description of the route and hazardous sections.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — technical.
  2. Region — Central Caucasus, Bezengi region.
  3. Peak Krumkol (4640) via the Central Bastion of the North face, combined route.
  4. First ascent, proposed category of difficulty — 5B.
  5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1440 m (by altimeter). Length of sections 5–6 km trud. — 480 m. Average steepness 53° (same as Melentyev's route, for which data is available in the USSR Sports Committee).
  6. Pitons used: rock 24/4, ice 96, protection gear 15.
  7. Total travel time: 15 + 7 + 11 = 33 hours.
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