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Mixed4,492 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Ascent to Koshtantau via the North Counterfort, category 4B difficulty, detailed route description, recommendations, and necessary equipment.

  1. Koshtantau via the North Counterforce — Cat. 4B (E. Mikhalskiy, E. Varteresevich, T. Lukaitis and E. Khrobak — August 20, 1964, V. Klimashin, Yu. Zhemchuzhnikov, E. Karchevskiy, A. Klopova, E. Nikonov and V. Shataev — June 29, 1965, Fig. II). The route from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the initial bivouac on the Southern ridge of the Utug crag is described in route 18. From the bivouac:
  • Descend to the glacier above the third step of the icefall
  • Move up and to the right along the glacier towards the base of the Western ridge of the Kunduum-Mizhyrgi peak
  • Pass the fourth step of the icefall 10–50 m to the right of the ridge
  • Bypass individual crevasses in the upper part of the icefall to the right
  • Exit left onto the upper plateau of the glacier
  • Move up the plateau towards the left side of the North counterforce of Koshtantau
  • Ascend 120 m up the snowy slope
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