Report

of the Tashgorsportkomitet team on the ascent of Mt. Chatyn (main) 4368 m via the "diamond" of the northern wall (variant along the edge) UzSSR, Tashkent 1981

Profile of the wall section of the route

Orography and brief history of exploration

Mt. Chatyn is located in a spur of the Main Caucasus Range, branching off between the peaks of Malaya Ushba and Shchurovsky. The spur is a sharp rocky-ice (snow) ridge, with three distinct peaks: Western, Main, and Eastern Chatyn. The Western peak was first conquered in 1912 by Golubev via a relatively easy route from the Ushba plateau. The exploration of Chatyn's wall began only in 1952. B.A. Garf's group passed a route through the Northern wall. In 1954, I.P. Leonov's group traversed the peaks Chatyn-Ushba-Mazeri, ascending via a steep counterfort of the Northern wall. In 1957, I.V. Solodueva's group traversed the eastern edge of the massif. It wasn't until 1959 that the "diamond" of the Northern wall was conquered - a huge black rocky overhang beneath the Main peak. Two teams - A. Snesarev's and L. Myshlyaev's - after a multi-day assault, established two routes of the highest category on Chatyn. To date, five routes have been passed through the "diamond" of the Northern wall (I. Chernoslivin, 1965, I. Bolizhevsky, 1969, V. Krakovich, 1972, in addition to the two mentioned above), the technical difficulty of which is undeniable, as proven by time.

Conditions of the ascent to Mt. Chatyn via the "diamond" of the Northern wall (variant along the edge)

Ascent Route Description

TO THE SUMMIT OF CHATYN-TAU VIA THE NORTH FACE (Snesarev A.A.'s Route) Central Council of the Lokomotiv Voluntary Sports Society (VDSS) Team, Moscow, 1966 www.alpfederation.ru

Lokomotiv VDSS Central Council Team Composition

№	Surname, initials	Year of birth	Sports rank	Place of residence	Party affiliation	Ascent experience
1.	KON'KOV M.P.	1937	MS	Moscow	CPSU member	1965: Shkheldy-Ushby traverse, p. Shurovski (bastion) 5B 1966: Tutyu-bashi N face 5B (Khergiani's route)
2.	SHISHKEVICH V.S.	1931	MS	Leningrad	CPSU candidate	1965: Shkheldy-Ushby traverse, p. Shurovski (bastion) 5B 1966: Tutyu-bashi N face 5B (Khergiani's route)
3.	POLYAKOV S.G.	1940	CMS	Moscow	Komsomol member	1965: Shkheldy-Ushby traverse, p. Shurovski (bastion) 5B 1966: Tutyu-bashi N face 5B (Khergiani's route)