3. Description

First ascent of the North wall of the 2nd Western peak of Sakashil-Bashi massif 4050 m. Approximately 5A category of difficulty. On August 30, two groups of climbers from Tyrnyauz went to the Sakashil-Bashi area to make ascents:

• Group led by Drobot S.Yu. consisting of 4 people — to the North wall of the 2nd Western Sakashil-Bashi
• Support group led by Furudya A.A. consisting of 6 people — to traverse the massif from East to West. Leaving Tyrnyauz at 8:00, the group reached the original bivouac site "3430 m" on the left-bank moraine of the upper plateau of the Sakashil-Su glacier by 18:00. Platforms were made on the moraine and a bivouac was set up (see approach description and photos № 1 and № 2). On August 31, Drobot S.Yu.'s group left the bivouac at 3:00. After crossing the ice plateau, they approached the start of the ascent, which begins with a snow-ice rise of initially 30–40° and quickly transitions into a steep ice-snow slope of 60–70°. Along this slope, after 3–4 ropes, they reached a bergschrund, which they crossed via a snow bridge, and continued further on crampons: 3 ropes to a steep rocky counterfort, bypassing it on the ice below the rocks. They emerged onto the counterfort and moved 1 rope (40 m) along the rocks. Then, they traversed the ice slope (60–65°) almost horizontally and reached a small rocky outcrop. From the rocky outcrop, they ascended a 20 m ice slope, which led them to a "diamond" formation, where they set up the 1st control cairn. The ascent from the start took 4 hours. Belays were hook belays throughout the section.