Central Council of Physical Culture and Sports

Report

on the ascent to v. Tyutyu-bashi 2nd West by S wall of S buttress — first ascent, 5A cat. difficulty, approximately, made on August 2–3, 1979 on the Central Caucasus, in the Adyr-su gorge by a group of climbers from "Dzhailyk" alpine camp in the following composition:

• SERGEY ANATOLYEVICH RYZHIKOV — Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor
• ANDREY EVGENYEVICH PETROV — 1st sports category. On August 2–3, 1979, a group of climbers from "Dzhailyk" alpine camp consisting of: Sergey Anatolyevich RYZHIKOV, Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor, and Andrey Evgenyevich PETROV, 1st sports category, made a first ascent of the route to the summit of Tyutyu-bashi 2nd West by the South wall of the southern buttress, approximately 5A category of difficulty. The southern buttress is located somewhat east of the southern edge, along which a 3B category route is laid to the same summit, and is separated from the edge by snowy slopes and a wide couloir. The buttress is separated from the walls of the 3rd Western Tyutyu-bashi — Central, by a huge couloir. The short snow-rock ridge of the buttress to the south ends in a wide almost vertical wall, cut almost in the middle by a weakly inclined crack from bottom to top, where it ends to the left (west) of a characteristic rock tower protrusion. The key section of our route follows mainly along this crack. Approach to the route. From the "Dzhailyk" alpine camp, follow the trail along the right bank of the Kulumkol-su river to the last large clearing under the terminal moraines of the glaciers of the gorge — "lower paradise camping".

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent region: Central Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Tyutyu-bashi, 2nd Western, 4850, via the 10th wall of the 10th counterfort. 4. Proposed category: 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, length of sections with 5–6 category: 160 m, average steepness 60^{\circ}. 6. Number of pitons: rock pitons — 33, chocks — 9, loops with carabiner — 3, including for creating artificial anchors — 6; total 39. 7. Number of climbing hours: from "Jailyk" tourist camp to the route — 4–5, from the foot to the summit — 13. 8. Number of overnight stays: one, lying down. 9. Group composition: