СВ ребру С стены

DESCRIPTION Category III, 56. FIRST ASCENTS OF TYUTYU-VASHI VIA THE NORTH FACE On August 8, 1949, the Lokomotiv team consisting of B. Garf (team leader), G. Vedenikov, V. Sher, A. Starostin, and A. Deikin (reserve) set off by car from the Lokomotiv camp to Adyl-Su for an alpine survey of the Tyutyu-Su gorge. The route commission had approved routes on any of the north faces in this gorge: Jailyk, Tyutyu-Bashi, or Sulukol. The choice was to be made on site after preliminary reconnaissance. The Tyutyu-Su River, which flows into the Baksan from the right, 3 km above the Tyrny-Auz settlement, runs through a picturesque and little-explored gorge. Paradoxically, despite the proximity to the road (a 4-hour walk along a good trail from the Tyrny-Auz settlement), the most interesting and difficult ascents in this area have not been made yet. Twice, Honored Master of Sports A.S. Zuzin visited this gorge, but at that time, he was mainly pursuing tourist-research goals and made only a few ascents via easy routes. Thus, the Lokomotiv team had a wide field of activity. The car took us to the last bridge over the Baksan before Tyrny-Auz. Here, we loaded all the expedition gear onto donkeys and set off first upstream along the Baksan (on the right bank) along a dirt road and then, crossing the Tyutyu-Su via a bridge, turned upstream along the deep canyon, following a trail laid along the left bank of the river. After 3 km, we were disappointed: