С стене
Mixed5А
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of **Dzhailyk** via the North wall, route by M. Suponitsky, category 5A difficulty level, route description and key points.
Dzhalyk via the North Face (M. Suponitsky's route, 5A cat. diff.) Initial bivouac — at the end of the left-bank moraine or on the upper snow plateau of the Tytju glacier opposite the North Face of Dzhalyk peak. From the bivouac:
- Across Tytju glacier, having passed the icefall, approach the left side of the steep ice-and-snow slope of the North Face of Dzhalyk peak.
- From the glacier, on the left side of this slope, ascend 100 m to the right side of the lower rock island of the North Face.
- Across simple snow-covered and ruined rocks of the island, 90–100 m straight up.
- The island can be bypassed on the right across the ice-and-snow slope (avalanches, rockfall).
- From the island, across a steep 250–300-meter ice-and-snow slope, to the right of the rocks, ascend to a snow bowl beneath an overhanging rock wall.
- Bivouac in the bowl.
- From the initial bivouac 8–10 hours.
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