Route Description:

The ascent to Chugur Pass (following the "Kichkinekol from Chugur Pass" route) is to the right of the "Parus" rock. From Kichkinekol Pass, it takes 2 hours. From the pass, follow the right side of the 500-meter ridge, initially a broken rocky ridge (watch out for cornices on the left!), then a snowy ridge to reach the summit. From Chugur Pass, it takes 2.5 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route to Chugur Pass and takes 1.5 hours.

• When ascending from the northern side, from Chugur valley, set up the initial bivouac under the Chugur glacier on the right lateral moraine, on the shore of a dried-up lake. From here, the ascent to Chugur Pass goes along the right side of the snowy slopes of the glacier, then up a steep (up to 40°) 80-meter snowy slope.