Двойняшка (3 - В), траверс с юга

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SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Description of the traverse of the Western and Eastern peaks of [Verina dvojnyashka](3800 m) with a detailed route map and technical details.

Dvoinyashka Peak — 3800 m

Traversing the Western and Eastern peaks (Description of the route as you move towards the summit) From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the first koshi, cross the bridge to the left bank, and follow the trail to a large talus accumulation in the gorge. After the talus, follow the riverbank to the start of the ascent up the left, grey, large moraine. Ascend along the ridge to a clearly defined confluence of two moraine ridges. From here, descend left from the moraine via a trail and ascend a grassy slope to a terrace, then continue up slopes and scree to reach the large-boulder moraine. Cross it to reach the Dalar Glacier plateau. Crossing the plateau, approach the slopes of the Dalar pass. Ascend a snowy slope to a terrace before a steep snowy ascent (80 m, 50°). In rope teams, ascend to the bergschrund — cross via a bridge and a gap (belay!). Beyond the bergschrund, ascend a snowy slope to the Dalar pass. There are platforms on the rocks. From the camp, it takes 5.5–6 hours. From the Dalar pass, descend left and down, bypassing the southern ridge of Dalar Peak, and follow the scree left of the "ram's foreheads" to the upper part of the cirque between Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks, to the 1st narrow couloir on the left. Ascend the couloir (in rope teams!) 50 m up and exit to a scree terrace. From the terrace, go right through a snowpatch and then along the "ram's foreheads" (belay!) — exit right and below the saddle between Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks. From here, traverse right along a large terrace, through a snowpatch, to a rocky outcrop, and from it descend to a depression in the southern ridge of the Western Dvoinyashka peak. Ascend 50 m straight up along broken rocks to the base of the ridge — a bivouac site. From the Dalar pass, it takes 4 hours.

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