Author: Yura Kryglov, Sevastopol "Madera Krymskaya" (380 m, 5B, F6b+, E3, A2) — a new route on Merdven-Kayasy. No bolts On Sunday, May 17, we completed a new line on Merdven-Kayasy (10 minutes walk along the upper road to the east from Chertova Lestnitsa). The route is called "Madera Krymskaya". Yura Kruglov is climbing the second rope of the route. The second rope is a song. It was because of this drink that, after finding myself in the company of stitched abstainers on Saturday evening and unnoticedly drinking it alone, I had to deviate from the pre-planned line of the intended route the next day in its upper part. But even as it turned out, the "Madera" route more than justified my expectations.

Approaching the route, history of the place, descent, and our recommendations

The lower part of Merdven-Kayasy wall was a popular training spot for rock climbers back when the upper road wasn't yet called upper. Buses on the Sevastopol-Yalta route would speed by on it. It's hard to imagine now... Among rock climbers, the lower part of the wall was known as "Khergiani Rock". The approach from the upper road to the foot of the wall takes a few minutes. But you can shorten even these few minutes by driving a car on a dirt road that branches off the asphalt towards the wall. The road leads to a clearing with an excellent camping spot. It takes less than a minute of slow walking from the campsite to the start of the routes.

Merdven-Kayas — 10. “Made­ra Krymskaya” (380 m, 5B, F6b+, E3, A2) — No bolts.

May 19, 2009 Yura Kruglov is climbing the second rope of the route. The second rope is a song. On Sunday, May 17, we ascended a new line on Merdven-Kayas (10 minutes walk along the upper road to the east from Chertova Lestnitsa). The route is “Made­ra Krymskaya”. It was because of this drink that, finding myself among stitched abstainers on Saturday evening and unnoticedly drinking it alone, I had to deviate from the previously planned line of the intended route in its upper part the next day. But even as it turned out, the “Madera” route more than justified my expectations.

Approach to the route, history of the place, descent, and our recommendations

The lower part of Merdven-Kayas wall was a popular training spot for climbers back when the upper road wasn't yet called the upper road. Buses between Sevastopol and Yalta would speed by on it. It's hard to imagine now... Among climbers, the lower part of the wall was known as “Khergiani rock.” The approach from the upper road to the foot of the wall takes a few minutes. These minutes can be shortened by car via a dirt road branching off the asphalt towards the wall. The road leads to a clearing with a great campsite. From the campsite to the start of the routes, it's less than a minute of slow walking.