Фальстарт
Route Description: Фальстарт
SSummitMateDescription of the "False Start" route, category 5B, on Merdven kayasy Mt. (856 m) by the center of the SW wall, climbed by T. Tsushko and A. Khomenko in January 2008.
G. Merdven kaya (856 m) via the center of the SW wall "Fal'start" 5B, approximately.
Tsushko T., Khomenko A., 13–14.01.08
The approach from the upper road takes 10 minutes. The start of the route is a long crack that leads to a flattening. Further, along the rocks of medium difficulty, move towards a huge chimney-crack, through which you exit to the yayla. The route length is about 350 m.
R0–R1. First, a crawl, then up to A-2 through the crack (a bolt is hammered 15 m above the ground). At the belay station: bolt + own. The crack is partially destroyed; in some places, it's better to belay from the left and right walls away from the crack. 45 m.
1–2 First, through the crack to A-2 — 35 m, then climb the chimney — 10 m, and exit to an inclined ledge. Along the ledge, left and up to a tree. Near the tree, the belay station: bolt + nuts; the tree does not inspire confidence. 53–55 m.
2–3 Along the ledge, left and up, then easy climbing:
- first, up the slab,
- then up the flake,
- we climb to a flattening; on the left, there's a large pine.
Route Description: Фальстарт
SSummitMateThe "False Start" route 5B, VI, A2 on Merdven-Kayasy, length 320 m, 7 pitches, with a detailed description of each stage.
Merdven-Kayas — 5. "False Start"
Massif: Merdven-Kayas (Khergiani) 856 m. Difficulty: 5B, VI, A2. Authors: Tsushko T., Khomenko A. Year of route creation: 2008. Number of pitches: 7. Length: 320 m. Route description: From "Chertova lestnitsa" (Devil's Staircase) follow the upper road approximately 1 km east, then take a dirt road to reach the campsites, and then follow a trail to the wall. The start of the route is a long cleft with a tree in its lower part.
- R0–R1 45 m. Up the cleft cutting through the entire lower bastion. The cleft is partially destroyed. There's an intermediate bolt at the 15-meter mark.
- Belay station on a bolt (spit) and own protection points.
- 10 m IV–V; 35 m VIA2 R1–R2 55 m. First, follow the cleft for 35 m, then exit through a chimney onto an inclined ledge. Traverse left and up along the ledge to a tree; belay station at the tree using spit anchors + cams. List:
- 35 m VIA2
- 10 m V