Kuylyutau

Ascent description of Peak Sovetskoy Konstitutsii via the Northwest Wall, grade 5B, made by a team of climbers from the Kyrgyz Sports Committee in 1977.

Ascent Passport Ascent class: high-altitude technical Ascent area: Central Tien Shan, Kuilyu-Tau ridge Summit: Peak Sovetskoy Konstitutsii 5281 m, northwest wall. Proposed difficulty category 5B. Route characteristics: height difference 1181 m, section length 5–6 km, tp 945 m, average slope 70°. Pitons hammered: rock - 97 ice - 60 bolted - 0

Ascent to Peak Sovetskoy Konstitutsii (5250 m) via the East Face, grade 6 difficulty, 1320 m elevation gain, 232 protection points.

Climbing class: High-altitude technical Climbing area, ridge: Central Tien-Shan, Terekty river area. Peak, its height, climbing route: peak Sovetskoy Konstitutsii 5250 m via the Eastern wall. Proposed difficulty category: 6B. Route characteristics: height difference 1320. Pitons driven: for belaying: 232. Placement elements: 126. Rock: 94 Ice: 12 Bolt: none

Description of the ascent route to Peak Karniz (4620 m) in the Kok-Shaan-Tau ridge with a detailed indication of obstacles and tactics for overcoming them.

Traverse of Peak Karniz (2B category) From the camp located in the middle of a flat gravel area of the upper modern erosion base of the Researchers and Chon-Turasu glaciers (altimeter reading 3500 m), we head towards the sheer wall of Peak Skala, to the place where these glaciers almost connect with each other. On the site, we easily jump over several small streams (they may not be there early in the morning and at low temperatures) and begin to ascend along the last stream before the moraines - this stream flows in the right direction for a long time. On both sides remain: chaotic accumulations of moraines (up to 30-40 m high); closed ponds of various shapes, sizes, and colors; huge blocks of dead ice, exposing their icy sides from under the moraines. In some places, the dead ice is exposed, and the ascent on it is inconvenient and often impossible: crampons slide along with the fine gravel, and cutting steps is difficult - the ice axe hits the pebbles, and large stones slide down from above. During the reconnaissance, a small mudflow occurred 15 m behind us; the diameter of the stones in the stream reached 1 m. To the right remains a 50-meter tongue of the Chon-Turasu glacier. We follow the stream until it disappears into the stones, then turn right, ascend to the ridge, and move along it for about 200 m. Then we go around the glacial lake on the left (it appears to be enclosed between the glacier tongue and the dead ice). The lake is surrounded by ice on all sides, and falling into it would make it impossible to get out without outside help. There are many such lakes near the tongue.