Object 20289895
Route Description: ЮЗ стене, траверс 5-ти вершин
Traversing the **Komsomola peak** (4376 m) massif from southwest to northeast, cat. 5B, Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau.
Full Traverse Route Diagram
from the southwest to the northeast of the Peak Kommunizm massif.
The Peak Kommunizm massif is located in the Malo-Almatinsky spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau, in the Tian Shan mountains, in the upper reaches of the Komosomolka river, a tributary of the Left Talgar river.
The absolute height of the Kommunizm massif is 4376 meters above sea level. There are six climbed routes to Peak Kommunizm, two of which are category 4B.
The approach path to the Kommunizm massif is through the Abay pass along the moraine and the Bogdanovich glacier to the overnight stay at the southwest wall of Peak Kommunizm, category 4B.
General Characteristics
of the full traverse of the Kommunizm massif (from southwest to northeast). The route begins on the southwest wall of Peak Kommunizm, which has an elevation of 3770 m. The relative height of the southwest wall is 606 m. The overall steepness is 65–70°. On the right, the wall is bounded by a very steep, narrow snow-ice couloir starting from the very summit. On the left, there are a series of isolated buttresses dissected by narrow couloirs. The upper part features very steep, in places vertical, sections of great length. In the center of the wall, there is a steeply falling, weakly expressed buttress. (via peaks: Smena (4080), Uzhbinka (3910), Zub (3880), Snow Plateau (3825))