Route Description

There are separate descriptions and diagrams for all the peaks included in the traverse (see routes):

• "Chungur-Jar from Chungur Pass" (77)
• "Chungur-Jar via the eastern ridge" (78)
• "Chungur-bashi via the western ridge" (79) The description and diagram for "Chungur-Jar via the eastern ridge" (78) should be read in reverse when traversing. On the saddle to the left, there are large snow cornices! After ascending to the summit of Chungur-bashi ("Chungur-bashi via the western ridge"), the descent from it towards the saddle to the peak of Kanny-kaya proceeds mostly to the right of the ridge line: along simple broken rocks, ledges, and slabs. The descent to the saddle takes 1.5 hours. The ascent to the summit of Kanny-kaya is similar in terrain character to the descent from Chungur-bashi to the saddle: moving along broken rocks, bypassing small gendarmes to the right along ledges. If the ledges are covered with snow, the gendarmes are passed "head-on," which will increase the ascent time to the summit by one hour. In the gaps between the gendarmes, there are snow cornices at the beginning of summer! From the saddle to the summit: 2.5 hours.

2.3.60 58 Traversing the peaks: KANNY-KAYA — CHUNUR-BASHI — CHUNUR-DZHAR from "Instruktorkiy" pass — Cat. 3A in both directions. From "Uzbekol" alpine camp along the trail of Kichkinekol gorge to the stream flowing from the Sredniy Kichkinekol glacier and along the trail along the stream to a green terrace. "Green campsite". From here, up the trail to the sheep's foreheads and along the ridge of the gray moraine to the Sredniy Kichkinekol glacier plateau. From the campsite — 3 hours. Through the plateau to the slopes of Kichkinekol pass. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund — closer to the rocks of the Filtr peak. Crossing via a bridge — belay! And further along the snowy slope for 150 m up to 45° — belay! — exit to the pass. From the plateau to the pass — 2 hours. Descent from the pass straight down to the Zamok glacier plateau. Immediately to the left under the slopes of Kichkinekol peak along the snowy slopes and terraces approach the Chungur pass. Exit to the pass along the snowy and scree slopes, guided by the "Parus" rock. From Kichkinekol pass to Chungur — 1–1.5 hours.