Description of the Ascent Route to Obryv Peak via the Southeast Ridge (First Ascent)

Group members: Zhelonkin E.F. (leader), Khokhryakov G.P., Eliseev G.M., Kelikeldin G.V., Sofronov I.D. Obryv Peak is located in the upper reaches of the Zeravshan Glacier, at the end of the southern spur of the Turkestan Range (Pamir-Alay). To the north of Obryv Peak, within the same spur, lies an unnamed peak 5025, separated from Obryv Peak by a long, heavily dissected ridge. To the east, towards Matcha Pass, several steep ridges descend from Obryv Peak and its pre-summit ridges, separated by broad snow-and-ice couloirs. Two ridges extend south and southeast from the peak, terminating in rock walls. According to available data, Obryv Peak had not been climbed before. The route chosen for the first ascent was an ascent via the southeast ridge, accessing it from the southwest through a couloir. The group from Arzamas-16, consisting of G.M. Eliseev, G.V. Kelikeldin, G.P. Khokhryakov, I.D. Sofronov, and E.F. Zhelonkin (leader), departed from the base camp at Matcha Pass at 6:00 on August 4, 1969, reached the summit the same day, spent the night on the ridge, and returned to camp at 14:00 on August 5, descending via the ascent route. The route is a combination of rock, snow, and ice climbing. The main part of the route involves rock climbing, although there are difficult snow and ice sections. From Matcha Pass, the path follows the Zeravshan Glacier, bypassing the southeast ridge to the southern slopes of Obryv Peak. A lake under the southern slopes serves as a landmark for the start of the ascent. Immediately beyond the lake, the ascent proceeds through talus onto a snowfield. The path goes up a fairly steep snowfield to the right, reaching its upper part and emerging onto rocks.