Varshavi
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateTraversing Sella and Warszawa peaks: a challenging mountaineering route across Bezengi Glacier and rocks with piton belay.
Sella peak — Warszawa peak, traverse.
From the “Jangi-kosh” hut through the “serac” moraine to the Bezengi glacier, along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the glacier (attention — closed crevices and rockfall hazard from the S. slopes of Warszawa peak), bypassing the bases of the three S. spurs of the main ridge, into the SW cirque of Bashha-aus-bashi. From the hut 2 hours 30 minutes. Through the bergschrund and along the snowy slope to the saddle on the NE ridge of Sella peak, leading to Bashha-aus. From the saddle, left along the snowy ridge with cornices on the left. On the pre-summit section:
- cross the ridge
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateTraverse of the peaks *Warszawa* and *Sella* from the north with passage of complex rocky, snow and ice sections, descent along the NE ridge and bypassing the spurs along the Bezengi Glacier.
2. Varschava peak — Sella peak, traverse.
From the Dzhangi-Kosh hut, cross the crescent-shaped moraine, reach the Bezengi glacier and move along the "pocket" between the zone of marginal crevices and the S. slopes of Varschava peak until the glacier flattens out for 30–40 minutes (watch out! — prone to rockfall from the left, hidden crevices). To the left is a wide snow couloir, bounded on the right by the S. ridge of Varschava peak. Follow the snow on the left side of the couloir, then:
- left across the broken rocks
- up the narrow snowy couloir (if icy — along the rocky ridge to the left of the couloir)
- to the saddle on the SW ridge with a cairn. From the hut — 2 hours. From the saddle, move to the right or along the ridge line simultaneously with protection on the ridge's protrusions and bends. The rocky ascent of the ridge before the summit is bypassed on the left along an inclined ledge with piton protection, then 30 m of easy rocks. From the saddle to Varschava peak — 2 hours. From the summit, descend simultaneously along the easy, gentle rocky ridge to a dip. Descend into the dip with a double rope pull or with the last person using piton protection, then continue simultaneously along the ridge to its lowest point. The ascent to Sella peak initially follows a broken rocky, then a gentle, gradually widening snowy ridge. From here, in adverse weather conditions, it is possible to abandon the route along the S. spur — ridge. From the junction with the spur:
- simultaneously along the sharp snowy ridge with rock outcrops,