Approved by Climbing and Tactics Committee, Protocol #3 dated March 15, 1961 Complexity category: 3A+1

Route Description to the Summit of VSEVOBUCH

The path from the "Talgar" camp goes up the gorge, through the Zelyonaya Polyana and the Burovoy Pass. It takes 7 hours to walk from the camp to the foot of the Burovoy Pass. The ascent to the pass goes along a couloir. After the pass, one should bypass the TUVVO peak from the right and descend to the southeastern branch of the Korzhenevsky Glacier. The route goes through snow and talus. There is a platform convenient for a bivouac at the lower part of the moraine. The night stay is organized here. From the bivouac site, cross the glacier and reach the foot of the VSEVOBUCH peak in 30–50 minutes. It is necessary to move across the glacier in rope teams (due to crevasses along the way). The ascent to the summit starts along a firn slope with a steepness of up to 35–40°, and a length of about 150 m. Then the slope steepness increases to 60–70° and continues for up to 70 m. After this section, the slope gradually becomes less steep, down to 35–40°. Next, one needs to reach a rocky outcrop (see diagram) via a steep ice slope with a steepness of up to 60°. Movement is done with alternate belay using the front teeth of crampons. Four ice screws were driven in up to the first rocky outcrop where the first control cairn is built. The further path goes along a firn-ice slope, about 100 m long, with a steepness of up to 30–40°, with belay using ice screws and rock outcrops. While ascending the slope, move to the right side of the ridge, before a clearly visible gendarme. Then continue ascending along the ice slope with a steepness of up to 40°, along the rocky ridge, leaving it on the left. Belay is done using ice screws.