Fig. 53

1. Traversing the Dottakh-kaya peaks (3670 m) with ascent to the Western summit via the northwestern ridge (cont. fors) — category 4A difficulty (fig. 53)

From Dombay, by car to the Bu-Ulgen plain or on foot through the Chuchkhur pass. From the Bu-Ulgen plain to the confluence of the Dottakh-kaya and Bu-Ulgen rivers and across the snow bridge (fordable at the end of summer) over the Bu-Ulgen River. Then along the Dottakh-kaya River upstream to the base of the northwestern ridge. Further:

• detour around the base of the ridge from the left via the "ram's foreheads",
• ascent via the moraine and a small snowpatch to a deep depression in the ridge — a bivouac site, water. From the Bu-Ulgen plain, 4–4.5 hours. From the bivouac, up to the ridge to the right and along it straight up (or bypassing certain sections) to the first sentinel rock. Ascent to the sentinel rock head-on (belay!), descent from it on the right side via ledges and back onto the ridge. Ascent to the second sentinel rock from the right via a 6-meter chimney (pitons for belay!), then traverse left and exit onto the ridge via slabs (belay!). Further, via a steep slab (60°, belay!) to the first wall. Ascent up the wall via a 20-meter chimney (pitons for belay!), then traverse left 20–25 meters across loose rocks. Then via a ledge up to the right onto the ridge, ascent via slabs to a snowpatch and along it to the left under the second wall, 120 meters high (wall steepness 70 — 75°). Ascent up the wall straight (pitons for belay!), exit onto the pre-summit ridge and along it to the Western summit.

Fig. 53

3. Traverse of the Dottakh-kaya — Bu-Ulgen massif (see Fig. 53–56)

From Dombayskaya polyana to the Northern shelter by car. From the Northern shelter, across the river Khokel via a log, to Chotcha polyana - bivouac. From the Northern shelter, 1 hour. From the bivouac, crossing the Chotcha gorge, to the right and further along the snows of avalanche depositions, approach to the first couloir on the slope of the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya. Through the couloir, exit to the "ram's foreheads" and further ascent to the eastern ridge descending towards the Northern shelter. Without reaching the ridge, traverse left into the cirque of a small glacier. Along the snowy slope of the cirque, diagonally upwards to a rocky outcrop, bypass the outcrop on the left and along a steep snowslope (belay!) - exit to the ridge. Then along the ridge and, bypassing a rocky outcrop on the left via a ledge, - exit to the saddle between the main ridge of Dottakh-kaya and the rocky outcrop. From the saddle, along the main ridge (steep rocks of medium difficulty, belay through outcrops, partly piton!) - exit to the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya. Further path to the Western peak of Dottakh-kaya is described in the traverse description of Dottakh-kaya.