Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical. 2. Ascent Region, Ridge: Central Tien-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge. 3. Peak, its Height, Ascent Route: p. Dikiy, 4930 m via the southern ridge. 4. Anticipated Difficulty Category: 2B 5. Route Characteristics: height difference — 540 m; sections of 5th difficulty category — none; average steepness — 38°. 6. Number of Pitons Driven: rock, ice, bolt pitons: a) for belaying 12; b) for creating intermediate belay points. 7. Number of Climbing Hours — 7.5 hours.

From the base camp, located on the right-bank moraine of the Yellow Inylchek Glacier below the peak Gorkogo, crossing the Yellow Inylchek Glacier in the direction of the northeast ridge of p. Dikiy, to the confluence of the Zvezdochka and Yellow Inylchek glaciers. Then along the heavily crevassed Zvezdochka glacier to its left-bank moraine. Along the moraine upwards along the base of p. Dikiy. Behind the eastern ridge, descending from p. Dikiy, there are places for good overnight stays. The overnight stays represent:

• a horizontal platform
• with a small lake
• surrounded by this glacial moraine. The approach takes 3 hours. From the overnight stays - straight up the fine scree to the clearly defined Severny Dikiy pass between the peaks of p. Dikiy and p. Slantsevyy. The Severny Dikiy pass is the starting point of the route. From the overnight stays to the start of the route - 1 hour 50 minutes. The ascent from the overnight stays takes 6 hours 30 minutes. Overcoming two ropes (0–I) is relatively simple rock destruction, not requiring piton protection. Movement is carried out strictly to the north along the ridge. Section (I–2) - a wall of medium difficulty, leading to a ledge (2–3). Here is a convenient change of lead. Traversing to the right along the slope to the couloir (3–4), which again leads to the ridge. In the couloir, there is wall ice, so special attention is needed. Further, a simple ridge (4–5) leads to a wall (5–6), which again leads to the ridge (6–7).

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical. 2. Ascent Area, Ridge: Central Tien-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Dikiy, 4930 m, via the eastern ridge. 4. Expected difficulty category: 36.25 кк ~ 504. . 2 . 5. Route Characteristics: height difference — 790 m; sections of 5th difficulty category — none; average steepness — 45°. 6. Pitons hammered: rock, ice, bolted: a) for belay — 12, 7; b) for creating i.t.o. (initial belay points). 7. Number of climbing hours — 8 hours. 8. Number of overnight stays — none.

Route Description

(Explanation to the table of main route characteristics) Departure at 6:30 AM. Initially, the route follows a simple, crumbling ridge. Rock climbing category 2B. Each section from R0–R1, R1–R2, R2–R3 ends with a gendarme, which are all ascended "head-on". The section R3–R4 ends with a gendarme featuring an internal angle. This gendarme is easily bypassed to the left. Similarly, the section 4–5 is ascended. However, bypassing the fifth gendarme to the left requires a handrail, using one rope. After the fifth gendarme, there's a control cairn. Further, the route traverses left along simple rocks for 100 m, leading to a crumbling rock wall. The wall is ascended with piton belay (rocks of third and fourth difficulty categories). Section 6–7 follows a simple, crumbling ridge leading to the confluence of the eastern and northeastern ridges. Crampons are put on here. Section 7–8 is along a mixed ridge, very sharp, with alternating belay.

0­–I	35	300	ridge, jendarme	II	broken. Good
I­–2	40	90	-"-	-"-	-"-	-"-
2-3	35	IIО	-"-	-"-	-"-	-"-
3-4	35	90	ridge, inner corner	-"-	-"-	-"-
4-5	35	I30	ridge, jendarme	III	monolith	-"-	4
5-6	70	60	wall	IV	broken. Good	-"-	8
6-7	30	IOO	ridge	II	-"-	-"-
7-8	20	I20	-"-	III	snowy	-"-
8-9	-30	20	-"-	-"-	-"-	-"-

7.5.71

Route Label

Peak Dikiy, via the eastern slope and northern ridge	Difficulty Category
Pugachyov Ivan Anatolyevich
Kokshaal-Too Range
№7.5, 71

Report

On the first ascent of Peak Dikiy (4930 m) via the eastern slope and northern ridge