From the base camp, located on the right-bank moraine of the Yellow Inylchek Glacier below the peak Gorkogo, crossing the Yellow Inylchek Glacier in the direction of the northeast ridge of p. Dikiy, to the confluence of the Zvezdochka and Yellow Inylchek glaciers. Then along the heavily crevassed Zvezdochka glacier to its left-bank moraine. Along the moraine upwards along the base of p. Dikiy. Behind the eastern ridge, descending from p. Dikiy, there are places for good overnight stays. The overnight stays represent:

  • a horizontal platform
  • with a small lake
  • surrounded by this glacial moraine.

The approach takes 3 hours. From the overnight stays - straight up the fine scree to the clearly defined Severny Dikiy pass between the peaks of p. Dikiy and p. Slantsevyy.

The Severny Dikiy pass is the starting point of the route. From the overnight stays to the start of the route - 1 hour 50 minutes.

The ascent from the overnight stays takes 6 hours 30 minutes. Overcoming two ropes (0–I) is relatively simple rock destruction, not requiring piton protection. Movement is carried out strictly to the north along the ridge.

Section (I–2) - a wall of medium difficulty, leading to a ledge (2–3). Here is a convenient change of lead.

Traversing to the right along the slope to the couloir (3–4), which again leads to the ridge. In the couloir, there is wall ice, so special attention is needed.

Further, a simple ridge (4–5) leads to a wall (5–6), which again leads to the ridge (6–7).

After this, the same combination:

  • wall (7–8)
  • ridge (8–9)
  • pre-summit tower (9–10)

Here, a cairn is complex. The decisive point is 3-4 meters higher and represents an icy dome. On the summit at 14:00. Descent via the ascent route.

Sources

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