Харьков, юго-западная
Route Description: с пер. Пяти
SSummitMateClimbing Kharkov Peak (80 difficulty rating) guide with a detailed route analysis, required equipment, and time management.
Ascent Description
To the peak Khar'kov (category III) The group should depart from the bivouac at 6:00. You need to ascend to the glacier of peak Khar'kov via the terminal moraine and move along its slopes towards the Pяти pass, from which the ascent to the summit begins. The ascent to the pass goes through steep snow (40-45° steepness) with a bergschrund at the base, which is usually closed at the beginning of summer and opens in August-September. The length of the ascent from the bergschrund to the pass ridge is approximately 60 m. Upon reaching the pass:
- The first 10-15 m the path goes through the snowfield to the right of the rocks.
- The first "Jendarme" on the way is bypassed on the left via easy rocks.
- Then follows an exit to the ridge and movement along it on the right side.
- On the left side of the ridge, there is a good platform for organizing an overnight stay.
- Along the ridge, the path goes to the second jendarme.
Route Description: СЗ ребру
SSummitMate### Description of the 3B category complexity route to the "Kharkov" summit via the NW edge, including passage details and recommendations for climbers.
Description
of the 3B category difficulty route to the summit "KHARKOV" via the NW edge. From the bivouac organized on the moraine of the western slopes of the summit "PESHIN", the group heads to the cairn of the "SNEZHNY" pass (the transition takes 30–40 minutes), from where the route to the summit "KHARKOV" via the NW edge is clearly visible. The route begins from the "SNEZHNY" pass, going vertically up the snow with initially gentle slopes, and then the steepness reaches 50–55°. Bypassing the lower rock outcrop:
- Bypassed on the left. Characteristics of the snow route: