23. Khodzha Laizi from the south, route category III, fig. 10 (Mukhamedova E., with a group – 1953)

The route starts from the Khodzha-Obi-Garm resort along a grassy slope to the southern ridge of the summit. Climb along the ridge to a rocky gendarme, which does not present particular difficulties. Pass the next gendarme on the right through a couloir with black stones. The couloir leads to a grassy slope, at the top of which a large rocky spire is visible. KHODJA LAISI CORNISES (IN SPRING)! 23 RESORT Fig. 10. The grassy ridge narrows and leads to rocks. Reach the sub-summit along the ridge. Traverse complex sections on the left of the ridge along scree. Before the summit, the ridge has a steep step down, 5–7 m high, where it is necessary to set up a rope descent. Steep, smooth rocks lead to the summit ridge. Reach the summit along easy rocks. The ascent takes 6 hours. Descend from the summit to the left along scree into the cirque beneath Ular peak. In winter, descend via the ascent route. The ascent takes 8–9 hours.